Do I
really need a pool cover and if so, what type should I use?
A pool cover
is one of the best investments you can make. Quite simply, pool
covers can save you money. They can limit heat loss, reduce water
evaporation and minimize chemical use and cleaning time.
You can purchase
automatic or power safety covers which provide a solid safety
barrier for your pool.
Solar covers
or blankets are not for safety but help heat your pool's water
to help you save on heating costs. If you heat your pool, a cover
can provide an energy savings of 50% or more, depending on the
climate where you live. These covers lie on the water's surface
to insulate the water and also help keep debris out of the pool.
Solar covers offer the following energy efficient features: transmittal
of sunlight to heat the water and reduction of heat loss.
Winter safety
covers are either solid or mesh and should be used when a pool
is closed for the season. Safety covers are secured around the
perimeter of the pool to prevent people and animals from getting
in and to keep dirt and debris out. Safety covers that allow rain
water to filter through can prevent dangerous water build up on
the cover.
Overall,
good pool covers for summer use and winter protection should be
included in every wise pool owner's investment.
We
made the plunge and we're enjoying our pool, but we aren't sure
who to call when problems arise. Are all dealers about the same?
Your pool
is a lasting investment so you should select a quality professional
to assist you with any service needs. Your first step should be
to read all about pools and become knowledgeable yourself about
pool maintenance and safety. If a problem arises that you aren't
sure how to handle, you can call the National Spa & Pool Institute
for a list of dealers in your area. All dealers are not the same.
Look for a company with Certified Service Professionals to make
sure the people you're trusting are qualified. Like other professionals
you hire; an M.D., D.D.S., or C.P.A., you want to be sure your
pool technician is is professionally competent. Verify references
for any dealer you call and review any contracts carefully before
signing. A good contract will help both you and your pool professional.
Is
there a simple way to keep the water in my pool fresh and clear?
There's nothing
quite like sparkling clean pool water on a hot summer's day and
once you have gotten your water fresh and clear it's not hard
to maintain it. The first step is to test it regularly and take
your water sample at the same of day each time you test. The NSPI
recommends using one of several testing devices, such as a water
test kit, to determine such things as water balance and pH levels.
A good test
kit should test for chlorine, pH, acid demand, base demand, and
total alkalinity. Carefully read and follow the instructions supplied
by your dealer and the manufacturers of both your test kit and
the chemicals you use. Store your test kit indoors at room temperature
away from direct sunlight and chemicals. Remember to always keep
the test kit out of children's reach and replace it at least once
a year.
In recent
years, water test strips have provided an alternative to the traditional
test kit. They are similar to those used by medical facilities.
Electronic measuring devices are also available to the public
and perform many of the traditional functions of water test kits.
Whichever you choose, learn to use your test equipment properly
and handle all pool chemicals carefully. Keeping your pool water
clean and clear is simply a matter of good maintenance!
Can
my hair become damaged or bleached from swimming in chlorinated
pools?
Yes, your
hair can become damaged from swimming in chlorinated pools. The
longer or more frequently you swim, the greater damage your hair
may receive. Chlorine is a bleach and and it can cause the color
of your hair to change. You will probably notice that your hair
becomes dull as you spend more time in your chlorinated pool.
Permed hair, which is already chemically treated, tends to absorb
even more chlorine and can become over processed.
If you are
worried about your hair, you can coat it with a cream rinse and
wear a rubber swimming cap when you go into the water. This will
help to protect your hair from absorbing chlorine and can also
act as a hot oil treatment when your body temperature rises.
Contrary
to popular belief, too much chlorine does not cause hair to turn
green. Exposure to hard metals, particularly copper, iron and
manganese, are to blame for this problem.
My
solid cover is falling into the pool and it seems to be losing water.
What should I do?
Water loss
during the winter months is a common experience and may not be
an indication of a problem. Solid covers placed on top of the
pool can accumulate large amounts of water, snow and ice. Water
is then lost from the pool due to displacement which is caused
by the excess weight. It is possible, however, that the swimming
pool may be losing water due to a leak in the structure, fixtures
or circulation lines which have not been properly winterized.
For example, if a 20 x 40 pool loses 1 inch of water per day,
that means almost 15,000 gallons of water must be replaced per
month to make up for this loss. That's a lot of water!
To calculate
your water loss multiply the length of your swimming pool times
the width times the inches of water lost times .625. For example,
in the above illustration a 20 x 40 pool has a surface area of
800 square feet (20 x 40=800) then times 30 days in a month (8000
x 30=24,000). Finally, multiply 24,000 times .625 (24,000 x .625=15,000).
This is the approximate amount of water lost in a 20 x 40 pool
losing one inch of water per day for 30 days.
What
do I do if I suspect a leak in my swimming pool?
If you would
like a printed copy of this answer, please click
here. Otherwise, read below.
There are
several causes for water loss in a swimming pool. An outdoor pool
can lose up to a quarter of an inch per day due to evaporation.
An indoor pool with a dehumidifier in the room can lose much more.
Splashing and playing in the pool can also cause water loss. A
little detective work may be necessary to determine if you have
a leak or just normal water loss.
First, lets
go through the basics. Is your pool cover off? Is your pool up
and running? Is your liner floating? Spring brings us many surprises...not
all of them good. Rain, snow and ice accumulating on a solid cover
over the winter months can displace the pool water underneath.
Pumping water off the cover is advisable, however if there are
holes in the cover, you may pump water through the holes and out
of the pool. Remove the solid cover, fill the pool and wait until
after your pool is running for a time before evaluating water
loss. If your liner is floating due to ground water, the pool
water can be pushed up and out of the pool. When the ground water
subsides, the liner settles and it appears as if you have a leak.
Adjusting
chemicals and vacuuming the pool in the early swim season may
include backwashing to waste a lot more often. This will also
lower the water level but is not a cause to worry.
After you
have checked these items, and if you're still not sure if you
have a problem, we suggest you do the Bucket Test. This is a simple
way to help diagnose if you have a problem and if so where that
problem might be. We have included the directions for this test
on the attached sheet. Also note any drips, puddles or wet areas
on the deck, equipment area or yard around the pool. Your visual
observations can save us time in determining the precise location
of a leak. We can then proceed to do a pressure test to determine
where plumbing leaks are located or possibly a dye test to determine
liner or structural leaks. If major repairs or liner replacement
is advisable, we will get you a timely estimate. Remember, the
dryer the weather and yard, the better it is to make these determinations.
So, you may wish to take advantage of the dry days when they come.
Please feel free to call us if you are experiencing any problems
or if you need answers to any pool questions. If you suspect a
leak or other problems and are scheduling an opening, be sure
to mention it when you call.
The
Bucket Test
- It is
best to choose a couple days that are fairly dry and when the
pool will not be in use.
- You will
need any size bucket, a waterproof marker and tape.
- Fill bucket
with water and place it on the deck next to the pool.
- Mark a
line to indicate water level in the bucket. Now mark a line
to indicate the water level in the pool (use tape on the pool
liner).
- Run the
pool for 24 hours and then check the water levels. Note any
water loss.
- Remark
the water level in the bucket and the pool.
- Now repeat
the test for another 24 hours with the pool off. Again note
any water loss.
- Check
and record your findings. Water loss due to evaporation etc.
should be equal in the bucket and the pool.
- If there
is a greater loss of water when the system is ON then the leak
is most likely in the return plumbing and/or in the equipment.
If the loss is greater with the system OFF, the leak is most
likely in the suction plumbing. If the loss is the same when
ON or OFF, the leak is most likely in the pool liner or wall
fixtures.
- This test
is not an exact science and the results may be affected by many
variables in and around your pool.
- NOTE:
There is always the possibility that there are multiple leaks
in the pool and equipment.
What
levels should my chemicals generally be at for my pool?
Here are
the suggested APSP standards for swimming pools:
| |
Minimum |
Ideal |
Maximum |
| Free
chlorine, ppm |
1.0 |
1.0-3.0 |
3.0 |
| Combined
chlorine, ppm |
None |
None |
0.2 |
| Bromine,
ppm |
2.0 |
2.0-4.0 |
4.0 |
| pH |
7.2 |
7.4-7.6 |
7.8 |
| Total
Alkalinity, ppm |
60 |
80-100
(for Liquid Chlorine, Cal-Hypo and Lithium Hypo)
100-200
(for Gas, Chlorine, Dichlor, Trichlor and Bromine Compounds)
|
180 |
| TDS,
ppm |
300 |
1000-2000 |
3000 |
| Calcium
Hardness, ppm |
150 |
200-400 |
500-1000 |
| Cyanuric
Acid, ppm |
10 |
30-50 |
150
(except where limited by Health Dept requirements often to
100 ppm) |
For more
information, click
here.
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